“I started using Retinol and my skin went crazy” Here’s how to use Retinol safely
Retinol is one of the most powerful active ingredients in skincare. It has been extensively studied and tested for over 40 years and, if you are looking to improve the overall appearance of your skin, it is often the go-to ingredient.
Why do we love Retinol so much? What are the Retinol’s superpowers?
Increases collagen stimulation
Increases cellular turnover
Exfoliates the surface of the skin (so the dullness improves)
Helps managing melanin (so pigmentation decreases)
So we’re talking about a multitasking, very powerful ingredient and that’s why it is so important to have it as part of your routine.
However no one really talks about this part.
It is not always easy to use. Retinol can be tricky, especially at the beginning. Most of the time your skin barrier is not ready for it yet, or you simply have not been shown how to use it properly.
Rule #1: START SLOW
Slow and steady wins the race with skincare. This is not surgery or toxins where after 2 weeks you look 20 years younger. This is a slow steady, more or less like a lifestyle type of a concept, but these actives are working slowly chipping away and preventing skin aging but also restoring the skin as well.
Most of the time, if you go and buy a retinol cream or a retinol serum, whatever the situation is, there are some things that happen to the skin and one typically is that there’s this reaction that occurs and a lot of times people take that reaction as like “oh I can’t use Retinol anymore because my skin’s got red, it’s gotten very dry, it feels terrible” and they throw it away. This has been the story forever! It has been the number one reason why most of people are not on Retinol.
Here are some ways around it:
Start using a LOW concentration. You will start twice a week and slowly go to three and four times a week until the daily use., which is the main goal. Some people say five times a week is enough, I say that using it everyday gives you amazing results. You can get better results using low concentrations as long as it’s being used regularly. You can start with a 0.01-0.03% in the very beginning so your skin will adapt to it and then if you want to push it a little bit further you go up to the next concentration level.
Is your skin still feeling dry, tight, or irritated?
First of all, your moisturiser needs to be good enough to support your skin while you're using retinol. I always recommend switching to a richer moisturiser, especially in the early stages. Look for ingredients like ceramides and vitamin E, which help support and strengthen the skin barrier.
Rule #2 the APPLICATION METHODS that can help minimise irritation when you're starting with retinol:
The first option is to mix your retinol directly into your moisturiser. Simply take your usual amount of moisturiser and add a pea-sized amount of retinol before applying it to the skin. This can be a gentler way to introduce retinol.
Another option is the "sandwich technique". Apply your moisturiser first, then your retinol, and if your skin still feels dry, follow with another layer of moisturiser. This creates a protective buffer that can help reduce irritation while still allowing your skin to benefit from the retinol.
Rule #3: DON’T MIX Retinol with active ingredients.
Retinol is already a very active ingredient on its own, so if your skin is still adjusting, I wouldn't recommend combining it with other strong actives in the same routine.
Vitamin C, for example, can already be quite potent and reactive on some skins. Pairing it with retinol may increase the risk of irritation, especially if you're a beginner.
The same applies to exfoliating acids such as AHAs and BHAs. These ingredients help remove dead skin cells, but when combined with retinol they can sometimes be too much for the skin to handle. Instead of getting better results, you may end up with a compromised skin barrier and more inflammation.
Even niacinamide can be problematic for some people, particularly in higher concentrations above 5%, if the skin is already irritated or sensitised.
Now, there are products on the market that successfully combine some of these ingredients in the same formula. However, if you're new to retinol, this wouldn't be my first choice, even if your skin is already used to other active ingredients.
My advice is to keep your retinol routine simple. Use your other actives on the nights you're not using retinol, and only if your skin feels healthy, comfortable, and free from signs of irritation.
So many people are afraid of retinol, but most don't realise just how powerful it can be when used correctly. Retinol remains one of the most effective ingredients for improving skin texture, supporting collagen production, reducing pigmentation, and softening the appearance of fine lines. And yes, you can use it around the eye area. In fact, it can be a great tool for both preventing and improving texture and tone over time.
Most importantly, don't give up too soon. If your skin starts purging during the first few weeks, don't panic. This is a normal part of the adjustment process for many people and does not necessarily mean that retinol isn't right for you. Trust the process, be consistent, and give your skin time to adapt. Once your skin has adjusted, the purging will settle and you'll start to notice the improvements that make retinol such a valuable part of a skincare routine
Remember, if you ever feel overwhelmed by your skin's reaction or if you want help understanding what your skin needs right now, feel free to send me an enquiry or book your complimentary virtual consultation where we can adjust your skincare routine together.
